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NJEGOS`S MAUSOLEUM – the most impressive and very mystic destination, of the indescribable natural beauty, not only of Cetinje but also of Montenegro in general, is by all means the mausoleum of Petar II Petrovic Njegos on the mountain Lovcen. Up to the mausoleum you can come by car from Cetinje, which is 13 kilometers away, passing through a certain climate spa or more and more famous rest home Ivan’s riverbeds. Apart from the beauty and the natural surrounding in which you will enjoy driving through the beech, oak and linden tree forests, you will equally be occupied with the freshness, that is, with the translucent air, which will welcome you and immediately disperse the felling of sultriness and summer heat, which is characteristic on the Coast. The mausoleum is situated in the Jezerski vrh (Jezerski peak), in the height of 1 660 meters, and it officially represents the highest mausoleum in the world. To the foot of the mausoleum leads the asphalt and pretty narrow road, which curves in the height, and when you reach the destination – to the mausoleum you can see the plateau and a pleasant restaurant in which you can find a billet shop and a mini souvenir shop, in which you can buy the tickets for visiting the mausoleum and also you can find various Montenegrin souvenirs. In the same place you will be awaited by the custodian or a guide who will unselfishly provide you with abundance of information about the bishop and the ruler of Montenegro Petar II Petrovic Njegos, about Montenegrin history and freethinking Cetinje. The road from the beginning plateau for climbing on to the Njegos`s mausoleum is made of numerous stony stairway (from the foot up to the entrance into the mausoleum there are 461 staircases), and one part of the path leads through a well done and lighted marble tunnel.
During the construction of Njegos`s mausoleum, for 5 years as it took for the building of that marble giant, as the architects usually call it, several tones of stone was spent. The creator of the idea for the construction of the Njegos`s mausoleum was the world famous sculptor, originally from Croatia Ivan Mestrovic. The mausoleum is situates on the place of what used to be Njegos`s chapel, in which Petar II Petrovic Njegos was buried earlier. The most beautiful meeting of land and sea, as in his time and English poet Lord Byron wrote, you will experience when from the peak of Lovcen you look down onto the foothill that is towards the Montenegrin coast or Bokokotorski bay. If the weather is nice and suitable for recording and photographing, from Lovcen you can se parts of Italy, Albania as well as parts of some mountains in Serbia.
The visits to Njegos`s mausoleum are more frequent during the summer period, especially for May to October. During that time Lovcen is visited by thousands of domestic and foreign tourists, who become dumb in front of the unordinary view which can be seen from Lovcen and that goes over Kotor bay, open sea, Skadar Lake, on the distant Prokletije or on to the capital Cetinje. Beside the beautiful view in which tourists enjoy observing the Bokokotorski bay and the Montenegrin coast, from Lovcen you can make interesting photographs which will be the best reminder of your visit to the highest mausoleum in the world. In the lobby of the Njegos`s mausoleum there are two stone caryatides: a mother and a daughter (or Njegos`s mother and sister – as some historians think), that weigh 7, 5 tones. In the façade of the mausoleum Njegos`s grandiose figure made out of the best and finest stone, weighting 28 tones is situated and above it a grey eagle with spread wings. Down in the crypt is Njegos`s grave. The eternal resting place, that is, a marble sarcophagus with the remains of the greatest philosopher and poet of Montenegro of the XIX century is built from the fine white marble. From the vaulted crypt golden kernels shimmer. For the decoration of the vault 18 kg of gold was spent, which was dispersed, into 27.000 kernels, all over the walls of the crypt. On the tombstone it is written “Njegos 1813. – 1851.”
From the entrance into the mausoleum, turning right, it is nice to walk down the stone path which only has several meters to the stone Montenegrin threshing floor, that is, the place which is built in a circle, with a stone rim for sitting, on which folk parliament, gatherings were organized, on which important decisions were brought, and where folk dances were performed. Climbing up to the peak of Lovcen, because of the numerous steps, to many is a great effort, so for a while you can rest, making mini pauses and do the sightseeing. On return, going down the stairs, you can choose to visit a nice restaurant “Vidikovac” (Observation deck), from which you have a great view on the slopes of Lovcen. For the visit of the Mausoleum in Cetinje you need a firm determination, a little bit of good will and several important information about the destination that you intend to visit, all the rest you will experience when you get on Lovcen.
From the direction of Budva or towns on the Coast, the easiest was to get to Lovcen is by your own car, rent – a car, taxi or bus – in organized tourist tours, that as excursions are sold by almost every tourist agency from the Montenegrin coast. Also, driving from the way of Ivan’s riverbeds towards Lovcen, you can come by car over the saddle Krstac, on the way Kotor – Njegusi – Cetinje. However, the funs of the recreation in nature and those for whom “time is not money” on Lovcen or for a visit of Njegos`s mausoleum they can go on foot. Especially if you are a mountain climber or you are engaged in fast walking, that for you going on foot from Budva, Tivat or Cetinje and Njegusi to Lovcen will not be an obstacle for you. On the mentioned section of the road there are marked mountain tracks and various village roads.
IVAN`S RIVERBEDS – on the 12th kilometer on the road from Cetinje to Lovcen there is a place called Ivan’s riverbeds, whose name is connected to the founder of Cetinje Ivan Crnojevic, in history better known as Ivan – beg. More specifically, the name is related to the way of a stream; the waters that come out from Trestenik, are collected into one stone reservoir, which is then over flown into the through made of, by the legend, beech logs, which were built by Ivan – beg Crnojevic. Ivan’s riverbeds are surely, the most popular tourist vacation area, which during the summer is extremely well visited almost every day, and during the other periods of the year, always when the conditions allow that, or when the slopes of the vacation area are covered with snow. Ivan’s riverbeds are a part of the National park Lovcen and they represent one of its most beautiful parts. They are situated on the east side of the Jezerski peak, in one meadow plateau surrounded by forest. There is also a famous rest home for children, which is opened even in the winter months. Above the rest home there is a skiing path, on which in the winter period a ski lift is being set. The lodgment has the ambulance for giving health services; it has a restaurant and a mountain cottage.
Numerous visitors from year to year, testify that Ivan’s riverbeds – a place which is very quiet and unusually relaxing, not only during the summer months, when the guests enjoy in the exquisite shadows and the famous well water, but also in the winter – on the snow, when on the slopes of Ivan’s riverbeds, everything is filled with children of pre school or school age, that want to ski, and sleigh ride, are a very interesting and amusing destination.
The area that is enclosed by the Ivan’s riverbeds is covered with rich forest, which especially attracts various researchers: geographers, zoologists, archeologists, and especially botanists. In the recent years more and more often on the space of Ivan’s riverbeds, good connoisseurs of herbs also stay, and they often pick healing and aromatic herbs like: Klamath weed, thyme, vermouth, heath, primrose… The vacation area Ivan’s riverbeds are loved by both adults and children, because the space under green forests is so attractive, that the excursions with tourists or individual visitors stay there for several hours. With the rest from the drive towards Lovcen or from Lovcen, the passengers usually stop in the restaurant or in the resting home on Ivan’s riverbeds to dine and have suitable refreshment.
NJEGUSI – Those who have visited Lovcen or Cetinje several times know that the tourist itinerary is best completed, when after the visit if Ivan’s riverbeds and the mausoleum on Lovcen you go towards Njegusi, the birth place of Petar II Petrovic Njegos, and the rest noblemen of the dynasty Petrovic.
There is also Njegos`s birth house that is turned into museum, but in that village is also the famous school which used to famous by the education of people from Cetinje, and it is marked with tourist signs.
In the recent period Njegusi are famous for the production of the famous cheese from Njegusi, smoked ham and dried goat cheese from Njegusi. In this mountain lodgment, at the 900 meter above sea level, the high quality honey and the nice refreshing drink mead are produced. That is why the tourist groups always stop in this lodgment and taste the specialties from Njegusi. From this area a long time ago the tasteful Njegusi steak has become well known and it won numerous European restaurants.
Above Njegusi, on Bukovica, there is an old Montenegrin tavern “Kod Pera” (at Pero`s), the ownership of the family Milosevic, who opened the first guest house in Montenegro. The buses and cars that are coming back from Cetinje or they are coming from Kotor or Tivat stop here regularly.
In the very Njegusi there are about 50 houses, a rest home, a restaurant “Njeguska sijela” (seats from Njegusi), many places for drying smoked ham and an inn. The houses are built from stone, and the newer ones used more modern materials and elements. Along the asphalt road that goes through the lodgment Njegusi you will come across the written notices that except in the restaurants, the famous Njegusi smoked ham and cheese, but also grape brandy and vine you can buy directly from the households in the nearby lodgment. If you decide for such a trip, your knowledge about the Montenegrin history, tradition, and culture will be a marvelous experience.
CETINJE MONASTERY – it is a place which inevitably you have to visit during your first acquaintance with Cetinje. Cetinje monastery is one of the most frequently visited religious centers of the town.
Up to the Cetinje monastery it is not hard to get. When from the center of Cetinje you direct yourself towards the King’s castle, you just go a little bit further, turn right and passing by the monastery on Cipur you are reaching the Cetinje monastery. The tourists, as well as religious people, first bow to the remains of the St Peter or they just observe the interior of the monastery. Apart from the gorgeous icons, iconostasis, reliquaries, impressive and mystical appears the chest in which the remains of the above mentioned saint are kept and they are covered with the dark red waterproof cloth, on which one golden cross is put. That place seems both spiritual and mystical but also obligating for all those whose choice is to visit this destination.
Cetinje monastery is situated in the foot of the Orlov krs, in the place on which, as it is thought, the castle of Ivan Crnojevic was situated, for whom it is believed that he is the founder of Cetinje. In the shop of the monastery you can buy various souvenirs, candles, church items, rosaries, holy oil, incense, books with prayers and Orthodox study as well as many other souvenirs.
Cetinje monastery was built in 1701. in the period of governance of Danilo Petrovic, a spiritual and secular ruler of the former Montenegro, who has built into the monastery the architectonic elements from the ruined monastery of Crnojevic. Monastery complex became the center of the spiritual, cultural and political life of Montenegro. It was devastated several times by the Turks, but also it was renewed and added onto several times, mostly adjusted its architecture to the configuration of the terrain.
The last thorough renewal of the monastery lasted 2 years, and it happened in the period from 1925. to 1927. year.
The nucleus of the complex of that monastery is made of one transept church of modest dimensions dedicated to the Birth of the Holy mother of God, in which we have the iconostasis from the middle of the XIX century, a work of art of the Greek masters.
In the south choir of the church the reliquary with the remains of St Petar Cetinjski is placed, while next to the very entrance into the monastery there are graves of Prince Danilo and grand governor Mirko, the father of the King Nikola I Petrovic.
From the north side of the church, next to the rock there is the cell of St Peter’s, and south from the church two floor sleeping chambers were built. In the so called Njegos sleeping chambers, the monastery museum is placed, which by its richness and diversity of the exhibits is the most significant museum institution of that kind in Montenegro. Cetinje monastery, of the harmonious architectonic entity, better known as the monastery of St Peter’s, for years is the symbol of the Montenegrin spirituality, free thought and education.
NJEGOS`S BILLIARD POOL HALL – In the immediate vicinity of Cetinje monastery we can see that Njegos`s residence is situated, better known as Billiard pool hall, built in 1838. with a significant financial help of Russia, and by the plan of the Russian emissary architect Jakov Ozereckovski. In the beginning that place was called the New house, but soon after the arrival of the pool table in Cetinje, it got the name Njegos`s Billiard pool hall. Its appearance suits the architectonic concept of the medieval castle. Billiard pool hall has the shape of the rectangular stone building that has a floor; it is modestly processed, covered by lead, encircled with the big stone wall with the round towers in corners and with gates on all sides. In the Billiard pool hall there are 25 rooms, from which 11 of them are on the ground floor while 14 are on the upper floor.
The most interesting for tourists is the biggest of all rooms in the Billiard, in which today Njegos`s pool table is kept. The first pool in Cetinje came from Vienna in 1839. Its procurement was financed by Russia, with which Montenegro had even then very important and good diplomatic and military relations. Apart from the exquisite literary work, spiritual raising and diplomacy, Njegos was also a great lover of shooting and pool, in which he always had excellent results and very often won his opponents.
A certain number of rooms in the Billiard pool hall, Njegos used for his personal necessities, while a great many of them were used by the Senate, Montenegrin Prince’s guards and other state organs as well as for the staying of the prominent guests. Up to 1867, Billiard pool hall served as a residence, first to Prince Danilo, and then for a short time to Nikola. This famous building is mainly connected to Njegos. Beside the residential ones, Billiard pool hall served for the necessities of various state institutions. For a while Njegos`s printing shop operated, which was founded in 1834., then theology, high school and for a while girl’s institute. Also, Billiard pool hall at the end of the XIX century was used for accommodation of the Ministries and as a military institution. In those years two towers were removed.
In time, Billiard pool hall was rebuilt, and by that remodeling both exterior and the interior were changed, and the most significant change happened during the reign of Prince Danilo, when another building was built onto the existing one. At the beginning of the XX century a spacious edifice of the Military Ministry was also built. The most drastic changes Billiard pool hall experienced in 1910., when the fence and the remaining two towers were removed. With their removal they wanted to open the side views towards monastery. Still, on the celebration of 100 years of Njegos`s death in 1951., to Billiard pool hall its original appearance was restored. During the 1919./1917. from one side of the wall of the Billiard pool hall a relief map of Montenegro was placed. It was placed in the pavilion which has cut the wall of the fence. Since the restoration of that famous edifice in it Njegos`s and Ethnographic museum were founded. With the renewal of the Billiard pool hall, which occurred in 1979. after the catastrophic earthquake in Montenegro, the space of the Billiard id now used only as Njegos`s museum.
Billiard is protected by law as a monument of the 1st category in Montenegro.
RIVER CRNOJEVIC – on the 16th km on the road from Cetinje to Podgorica there is a visibly marked board, on which there is a road sign for River Crnojevic.
That area of Montenegro and Cetinje, will hardly be uninteresting for you, because in the past, especially in the period of the reign of King Nikola it was used as a winter king’s residence, and because of its unusual beauty and natural surrounding it got the name “Montenegrin Nice”. The beauty of River Crnojevic, no matter how well its beauty is described, it can hardly be imagined by anyone until one gets there and sees that for himself. Of that best speaks its more and more used name ‘Little Venice” on which quickly and easily almost all visitors and tourists got used to. It is best to go to River Crnojevic by your own car, rent – a car vehicle or taxi van. If you wish to come to River Crnojevic from Cetinje or from the Coast, and you are a passionate devotee of nature then it is best that you stop at the very turning towards the River Crnojevic, and easily walk down the curvy road to the very destination.
On River Crnojevic the time that has stopped and human oblivion have kept the beauty of the nature intact, but have also influenced that only ruins can now speak of the famous history of what used to be the strongest trading center.
River Crnojevic has its own very tempestuous but above all significant history for the people of Montenegro. Namely, that place at the beginning of the XV century was the capital city of the founder of Cetinje Ivan Crnojevic. The Orthodox bishopric was at that time moved from Vranjina (a place famous because of the shooting of the Montenegrin movies of the director Zivko Nikolic) to Obod, a hill above River Crnojevic.
Thirty years after Gutenberg, on Obod Cyrillic leaden letters were cast and the work of the first printing shop at south Slavs began.
On River Crnojevic there used to be a winter home of the famous Montenegrin dynasty Petrovic, because in this place there was almost no wind, and the climate was even milder than on the coast. The famous bridge across the river was built in 1853. by Prince Danilo, while the bigger bridge, that connects River with Virpazar was built by Prince Nikola in 1905.
During the XIX and at the beginning of the XX century River Crnojevic was the most important market in this part of the Balkans. On the Italian dining tables a product from these areas – dried bleak was much appreciated. In River all three confessions lived and traded happily, and the Muslims were thought to be the best tradesman.
A great fortune of this area were houses that were situated on the lake “eyes” (little pools) which there are many in this area and that are very rich with fish. Before the Balkan wars the River was filled with manufacture shops, and right here the first pharmacy in Montenegro was opened, as well as the first gun shop. In the factory “Marica” situated in River Crnojevic, the pearl made of fish scales was produced.
That River Crnojevic is a fishing place mainly, we can see by the fish factory “Ribastvo” (Fishing), which is found just next to the road towards it.
What used to be a trading and fishing borough, until recently it was very devastated, but it was renewed and a boardwalk was built, as well as Danilo`s bridge, and from both sides of the River the stone walls were constructed.
Tourists, everyday, especially during the summer gladly visit River Crnojevic. The devotees of nature, the funs of good photograph and unusual landscapes come here. Often on River Crnojevic they can stay for a whole day, and take pictures with their cameras without getting tired. The famous director Emir Kusturica and the world champion in canoe riding are frequent guests of River Crnojevic and especially the Dobrosko village, which is surrounded by small vineyards form whose type the famous vines and brandies of Montenegro are made. Fiord of the River Crnojevic, for years has been thrilling numerous individuals that are engaged in various types of art, and it is not strange that the motifs of the well known Danilo`s bridge on the River are found on the calendars, postcards and atlases that are found and bought all over the world.
If you take the wooden canoe and from the very nicely built port you set yourself out down the water you can ride in the direction of the famous place Karuc, where the well known summer cottage of St. Peter from Cetinje is placed, which even though it is neglected has something from the old times in itself.
In that area for ever the fishermen have been living. They have famous vineyards. For the refreshments and a break from the trip or the ride, in Karuc there is a small house – restaurant, with only 3 or 4 tables but rich and various meals are offered to tourists. Mostly that is fish from the River and red Montenegrin vine, which the owners of the restaurant make by themselves. When you are going through the River Crnojevic it is nice to visit the village Dodosi, in which famous clappers of the Montenegrin – French movie “The Unseen Miracle” of the director Zivko Nikolic were made. In the village there are unusually built houses, which lean one onto the other, and all over the area the smell of the fish, smoked or fried bream, or the well dried salty bleaks spreads around.
There are various initiatives for the revitalization of River Crnojevic. The new look of the River means the posing of the new drinking fountain on the place of the old one, the adaptation of the dilapidated green areas and the renewal of the facilities and houses. The local residents of the River Crnojevic are hoping that the asphalt road from the Wells to Obod will be made, so that the tourists and visitors could see the old mills, which will, instead for milling will serve to restaurant owners to make the attractive restaurants and places for rest
Also, on the locality called “Zabran Kralja Nikole” (The Ban of King Nikola), close to River Crnojevic, a part of the fence will be repaired and a house for the placement of the food and the watering halls will be built, which will be mostly used by the passionate hunters (safari – hunt) and numerous funs of game (venison), who will come to River to observe the deer game, with which the ban will be soon enriched. The reservation is rich with deers, and there is an idea with which that space could be turned into the ZOO. Until then we should enjoy in the things that River offers us now.
On River Crnojevic an unusual emotion is being created. Sometimes it is hard and sometimes it is easy to describe it. The peacefulness of the entire area blends into some weird tones. A divine is a feeling that reminds you to the spirits of the past times spiced with some strange peace, which is reinforced with the vision that is made by water that almost doesn’t flow. About that maybe the best witnesses are permanent residents of the sleepy River and its water: cattail, water mint, its beauty is best singled out by the fine leaves of white and yellow water lily, and below the fishing canoes the specimens pf lake fishes like: carp, bleak, eel, bream, salmonidae… can be found often. All of that is beautified with a green fiord and mild climate that sometimes knows to be even more pleasant than the coastal climate, because it is made by the mountain freshness and easiness of the south currents.
That tranquil of peace and nature, knows to be interrupted by some old fisherman or several of them, who going into their wooden canoes start spreading their nets or preparing harpoons, in order to skillfully catch the fish, and so on!
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