The History of Zabljak
Montenegro’s Durmitor region, nestled between the Tara and Piva rivers and stretching to Sinjajevina, is a breathtaking mountain territory rich in history and nature. Despite its rugged terrain, it has witnessed tumultuous events and diverse tribes, from Illyrians and Celts to Romans and Slavs, with cattle breeding as a primary activity due to abundant pastures.
Ancient and Medieval Foundations
The area of Durmitor, lying between the beautiful Montenegrin rivers Tara and Piva and extending to Sinjajevina, has a deep historical legacy. Illyrians, specifically the Autariati tribe, established the first settlements, but they were displaced by Celts in the IV century B.C. Consequently, with Roman arrival, Durmitor became part of their territory until the VII century, when Slav tribes inhabited it. These Slavs referred to the Roman citizens they encountered as Vlasi, a term that later evolved to denote cattle breeders regardless of nationality. Indeed, from early times, cattle breeding thrived here, leveraging favorable geographic conditions and quality pastures.
Etymology of the word Durmitor sparks debate; some trace it to the Latin “Dormire” meaning to sleep, while others suggest the Celtic “drumitor” for water from the mountain. Moreover, as the first Slav states emerged on the Balkans, this area integrated into the early feudal Serbian state from the IX century under ruler Vlastimir. Administratively divided into parishes, it encompassed a wider territory. In the XI century, with the formation of the Zeta state, Durmitor was included, and later, the old state of Raska, led by figures like Vukan and Nemanja, dominated amidst conflicts with Byzantium.
Ottoman Resistance and Tribal Life
The arrival of the Turks initiated a prolonged struggle for Durmitor’s inhabitants from 1482 to 1857. Despite cruel forays, the people resisted the Ottoman Empire, achieving significant victories like the one at Saranci in 1862. A notable event was the killing of Smail aga Cengic, a notorious Turkish general, in 1840 on Mljeticak. Over centuries, this resistance fostered tribal authority and life, with territories initially divided into Drobnjak and Piva, later forming tribes such as Uskoci, Jezera, and Saranci. The center of these tribes was The History of Zabljak.
In 1878, Durmitor became part of Montenegro, integrating into the administratively admitted state. Culturally, several churches and monasteries played key roles, including Piva monastery from 1573, Bijela from the XVIII century, and Dobrilovina, possibly dating to the Nemanjici era. Churches in Krs and on The History of Zabljak were built to commemorate victories over the Turks. Although Turks set fires to these sites, locals preserved them, making Piva monastery a vital cultural landmark.
Modern Developments and World Wars
From 1857 to 1878, Durmitor served as a border territory, facing minor clashes with Turkish squads. Later, it connected with Pljevlja and Bijelo Polje, solidifying a free territory in northern Montenegro. During World War I, the area endured occupier attacks but maintained resistance through Komit groups. Between the wars, it was part of Savnik county, with municipalities like Jezerska, where The History of Zabljak was located, and others such as Drobnjacka and Uskocka. Cattle breeding dominated, alongside forest exploitation, sawmills, schools, and the opening of the Niksic-Savnik-Zabljak-Pljevlja road.
With the formation of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenians, active political life emerged, and before World War II, the communist party gained importance. It encouraged resistance, notably preventing the renaming of The History of Zabljak to Aleksandrov grad. Locals condemned Yugoslavia’s approach to the tripartite treaty, valuing freedom highly, with The History of Zabljak hosting significant demonstrations.
In World War II, The History of Zabljak and Durmitor made immense sacrifices, liberating the area quickly and forming partisan squads. The Durmitor republic, a fulcrum for Josip Broz Tito’s headquarters, suffered over 2,500 victims and produced 15 folk heroes. After the war, The History of Zabljak transformed from a village into a tourist town, now a leading winter center leveraging its natural beauty for rest and national affirmation.
The Legend
Eight kilometers east from The History of Zabljak lie the remains of medieval Pirlitor, a fortified town from the XIV century, famous from folk poems about Duke Momcilo. According to legend, he died due to his wife Vidosava’s treason, who burned the wings of his winged horse Jabucilo. After Momcilo’s death, Jabucilo threw itself into Crno jezero, with locals sometimes hearing its scream from the lake today.